Handy Cruising List

This list is what we use to get our collective “stuff” together.

Engine Details

Yanmar 2GMF; Serial# 09895

2GMF

15

1980 – 1983

Fresh

About the GM/HM series: Introduced in 1980 and 1981 this series was a completely new generation of engines. Lighter, smaller, smoother and quieter than previous engines. An F designation on the model number indicates factory fresh-water cooling. 35 AMP alternators.

13hp @3400 (From plate on engine. However, seem to be referred to a a 15hp engine)

Rebuilt by Portside marine year end 2012

Transmission rebuilt 2013  (I think)

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Explanation of Yanmar serial numbers: 

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Annual Maintenance Parts
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Part	Yanmar Ref
Air Filter	128270-12540 (2016: $23)
Secondary – on engine filter	104500-55710 (2016: $6.35)
Oil Filter	119305-35151 (2016: $10.50)
Racor Filter – off engine filter	Racor R20P Racor R25P (larger version)
Impeller	Johnson Pump 08810

Cockpit Floor Hatch

The following is the information on the replacement hatches that are in Cookin 464 and Gilleleje 505.

To mount the table, Mike 505 has drilled threaded holes into the hatch into the ribs to get enough purchase to ensure that the holes do not strip out.

> On 5/29/2015 11:36:52 AM, Jonathan Adams (laughing_gull@verizon.net)
wrote:
> > ok here is the info from Cookin and Gillilajie (or something like that)
> I just ordered my hatch from Hamilton Marine. I called them to ask
which was the best one and they said the Bowmar had was better. They are
the ONLY ones that have this hatch. There was NO advantage (other than a
slight savings in shipping cost) to order multiple hatches, so everyone
is ordering their own…especially since I didn’t want to run up a
$1,200 charge on my credit card. So here’s is what to
order… https://store.hamiltonmarine.com
> | HATCH BOMAR ALUM 10″ RND DECK HATCH W/ T HANDLE 104629 @ $
299.99orHATCH BOMAR ALUM 10″ RND DECK HATCH W/T-HNDL WHT 104630 @ 339.99
(If you want it white powder coated) The white ones are not in stock but
they have 3 on order from Bowmar. I ordered white because Trish likes to
be bare foot on the boat and the old hatch gets too hot to stand on. |
>
>

Water Tank – Rehab

Just starting this process – drilled an inspection port in, and will try and get away with doing everything through the port for near term. These are shots with phone – shooting blind. Good thing was that there was nothing in the tank. I think that is good. Of course it may mean that it all leaked out.

Lynne is not impressed with this! She wants a complete forward end of the boat re-build. Not happening (at least this year). Plan on spraying with bleach. I also have a steamer that is great at cleaning and disinfecting things. This is waiting on the ice box job.

Jonathan Bressler Forwarded these articles: Epoxy Works and Another one from Atomvoyages

Here is site for tanks that have one that will fit in port cockpit locker. https://ronco-plastics.com/product/water-waste-holding-tank/

All that sand in the bilge!

I got this off the A30 list, and wanted to capture it here for later reference – Thank you David. On Laughing Gull, I have done the aft end, but not he bilge under the batteries. This is next.

==================================

—– Forwarded Message —–
From: David Van Denburgh <denburgh@andrews.edu>
To: Jonathan Adams <laughing_gull@verizon.net>; Chip Dance <chipdance01@gmail.com>; Chip Dance via Public-List <public-list@lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2016 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] 1975 bilge leak

Here is my experience – taken from my blog – about the cement/sand in my bilge and the repair:

In the area just forward of the aftermost floor, there was a piece of exposed ballast and aft of it a cement-like material intended, I suppose, to keep the ballast in place and the fill the aft area of the keel.

Water had apparently leaked through this area for some time because a previous owner installed a drain in the bottom of the keel just aft of this position.  Once I’d vacuumed the junk out of the bilge, I noticed a hole had been drilled down through the cement, and after rodding it out with a screw driver I was able to see through to the drain in the keel.  I’m not too keen on having a exposed fitting mounted to the bottom of the keel where it could be damaged or ripped loose in a grounding, so I will eventually remove it and install a garboard drain even with the bilge bottom.

I mixed up some epoxy and applied a thin coating over the exposed material in the keel as an initial seal.  Once it was tacky, I mixed up epoxy thickened with colloidal silica and used it to fill in some of the larger gaps.  Atop that I laid a layer of fiberglass cloth.  Although that provided some measure of protection to that area, it left an irregularly shaped bilge, so I cut a couple pieces of blue DOW styrofoam board to fit and fill the bottom of the bilge, creating a flat surface that sloped slightly forward from the aft portion of the bilge.  I then covered the area with a layer of 1708 biaxial cloth that attached well up the sides of the bilge, creating new bilge bottom and sealing the area beneath.

http://alberg30project.blogspot.com/2012/07/having-lot-of-other-stuff-to-do-canvas.html

Ice Box Rebuild on Alberg 30 Pandora #8, and Gilleleje #505

The attached information was provided by Brooke, who is just finishing a total rebuild of Pandora. His approach was based on this article from Wooden Boat magazine 1999 which I found interesting. Also Mike Lehman on a new style boat upgraded his box, and those pictures and comments can be found here. These two presentations were topics on the recent 2/2016 Alberg 30 seminar. Also note that Mike had some research on refrigeration units as he added a refrigeration unit – which works really well with low battery drain.Those articles are here PS June 2009 and here PS October 2013