This is a bit of a placeholder, and will get updated over time.
1/13/19 Some Pics and current thinking: The Template that I scribed off the boat, and then transferred them to the paper taped to the floor to figure out how to cut what I needed out of the 3’x4′ sheet of G10. I then glassed the three pieces of g10 together and will cut the bases out of that. I can then fit the teak rail on top to raise up the total height to ~1.5 inches.
1/13/19 Note from Charles Pleisse on Vendors:
Coosa Board: Coosa Bluewater 26. It is available from a local distributor in Baltimore called Total Plastics International. A 3/4″-4’x8′ sheet of the stuff is $276, less than half the bd.ft cost of teak. I looked here for the price and it was about the same as G10. Note that I ended up getting the 1/4′ G10 which is actually cheaper.
Fasteners: Albany County Fasteners (866)573-0445. I was able to get everything needed in 316 stainless for just a hair over $100.
INITIAL FACEBOOK THREAD
Question for the collective wisdom… my toe rails are pretty much shot essentially along the midships length that the genoa track is on. I have an old style boat, and the toe rails are about 1 1/4″ wide at the bottom, and 1″ at the top by about 3″ high. I was thinking about replacing just the mid section from the aft end of the shrouds until the scupper opening towards the stern of the cockpit. Initially I thought of doing a lower teak strip that was wider to spread the load, and then I thought that this could be done with G10, with perhaps a strip of teak on the top similar to what the new style boats have.
I was thinking about two 1/2″ think pieces stacked to make an inch high toe rail with the genoa track on top. Any advice / thoughts? I know Jason Steen seems to be the G10 guy, and is perhaps facing this issue as his decks get re-cored.
it is some other kind of tropical hardwood. I was replacing (scarfing in)
pieces at a time chasing down rot. Leaks getting down into the pull downs
was the problem. I finally just made the big decision to start over from
scratch. Too big a job for me and had the yard do it. $7500.00 including a
much better cap over the transom in 2013.
I’m glad I did it but it is breathtaking to realize that cost is in
shouting distance of the cost of the entire boat in 1967.
If it lasts another 40 years it’s money well spent (to me). There are all
kinds of dimension changes and curves in all directions. The yard guys
were getting frustrated but it worked out great.
Michael Grosh
#220
I note that Carnival Lady just removed hers except a short section on the
bow. Very clean looking I like that treatment also. Bump up the nonskid
and it’s good to go. Although issue exists with beer rolling over the side it seems.
Scott Reed If you want to go whole hog, you can replace the entire Toe Rail with aluminum. It is bit expensive but overall about the same if you were to replace the entire toerail with teak. The sticks come in 21′ lengths and you will need 3 sticks. Cost should be $600/stick plus $175 shipping (maybe less…). The sticks come from TACO Marine part #A62-009VEL21D . Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Sailing Tranquility 