Rudder Work #3 -Coming back together.

All done – very nice. More to follow once I get the toe rail back on 🙂

Very smooth finish with the bronze rods peened over rather than using bolts.

This is a placeholder to get some pictures up here – narrative to follow.

All the bronze pieces back from the shop

Dry fitting all went back together – whew

Shoe fits like a glove. New pin has absolutely no place to go

Peening over bronze to fasten the pintel – Good fun bashing something until it does what you want 🙂

Replacing the Toe Rail

This is a bit of a placeholder, and will get updated over time.

1/13/19 Some Pics and current thinking: The Template that I scribed off the boat, and then transferred them to the paper taped to the floor to figure out how to cut what I needed out of the 3’x4′ sheet of G10. I then glassed the three pieces of g10 together and will cut the bases out of that. I can then fit the teak rail on top to raise up the total height to ~1.5 inches.

1/13/19 Note from Charles Pleisse on Vendors:

Coosa Board: Coosa Bluewater 26.  It is available from a local distributor in Baltimore called Total Plastics International.  A 3/4″-4’x8′ sheet of the stuff is $276, less than half the bd.ft cost of teak.  I looked here for the price and it was about the same as G10. Note that I ended up getting the 1/4′ G10 which is actually cheaper.

Fasteners: Albany County Fasteners (866)573-0445.   I was able to get everything needed in 316 stainless for just a hair over $100.

INITIAL FACEBOOK THREAD

Question for the collective wisdom… my toe rails are pretty much shot essentially along the midships length that the genoa track is on. I have an old style boat, and the toe rails are about 1 1/4″ wide at the bottom, and 1″ at the top by about 3″ high. I was thinking about replacing just the mid section from the aft end of the shrouds until the scupper opening towards the stern of the cockpit. Initially I thought of doing a lower teak strip that was wider to spread the load, and then I thought that this could be done with G10, with perhaps a strip of teak on the top similar to what the new style boats have.

I was thinking about two 1/2″ think pieces stacked to make an inch high toe rail with the genoa track on top. Any advice / thoughts? I know Jason Steen seems to be the G10 guy, and is perhaps facing this issue as his decks get re-cored.

Michael Grosh I had the same problem on Checkmate. The original wood looks like teak but
it is some other kind of tropical hardwood. I was replacing (scarfing in)
pieces at a time chasing down rot. Leaks getting down into the pull downs
was the problem. I finally just made the big decision to start over from
scratch. Too big a job for me and had the yard do it. $7500.00 including a
much better cap over the transom in 2013.
I’m glad I did it but it is breathtaking to realize that cost is in
shouting distance of the cost of the entire boat in 1967.

If it lasts another 40 years it’s money well spent (to me). There are all
kinds of dimension changes and curves in all directions. The yard guys
were getting frustrated but it worked out great.
Michael Grosh
#220

I note that Carnival Lady just removed hers except a short section on the
bow. Very clean looking I like that treatment also. Bump up the nonskid
and it’s good to go. Although issue exists with beer rolling over the side it seems.

Scott Reed If you want to go whole hog, you can replace the entire Toe Rail with aluminum. It is bit expensive but overall about the same if you were to replace the entire toerail with teak. The sticks come in 21′ lengths and you will need 3 sticks. Cost should be $600/stick plus $175 shipping (maybe less…). The sticks come from TACO Marine part #A62-009VEL21D . Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.

Jonathan Adams Thanks – I am getting a quote now, and will let you know the new prices. Not sure I am going this way, but it has some advantages.

Wes Gardner Hey Scott, did you hire it out or DIY? Looks really good…I think I’d go that route…

Jonathan Adams I would still want to put a genoa track on the deck for the ability to adjust as I race. Did you have to move the rub rail? or did the new track cover the hull to deck joint? In the case of the latter, could I do away with the stainless?

All that sand in the bilge!

I got this off the A30 list, and wanted to capture it here for later reference – Thank you David. On Laughing Gull, I have done the aft end, but not he bilge under the batteries. This is next.

==================================

—– Forwarded Message —–
From: David Van Denburgh <denburgh@andrews.edu>
To: Jonathan Adams <laughing_gull@verizon.net>; Chip Dance <chipdance01@gmail.com>; Chip Dance via Public-List <public-list@lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2016 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] 1975 bilge leak

Here is my experience – taken from my blog – about the cement/sand in my bilge and the repair:

In the area just forward of the aftermost floor, there was a piece of exposed ballast and aft of it a cement-like material intended, I suppose, to keep the ballast in place and the fill the aft area of the keel.

Water had apparently leaked through this area for some time because a previous owner installed a drain in the bottom of the keel just aft of this position.  Once I’d vacuumed the junk out of the bilge, I noticed a hole had been drilled down through the cement, and after rodding it out with a screw driver I was able to see through to the drain in the keel.  I’m not too keen on having a exposed fitting mounted to the bottom of the keel where it could be damaged or ripped loose in a grounding, so I will eventually remove it and install a garboard drain even with the bilge bottom.

I mixed up some epoxy and applied a thin coating over the exposed material in the keel as an initial seal.  Once it was tacky, I mixed up epoxy thickened with colloidal silica and used it to fill in some of the larger gaps.  Atop that I laid a layer of fiberglass cloth.  Although that provided some measure of protection to that area, it left an irregularly shaped bilge, so I cut a couple pieces of blue DOW styrofoam board to fit and fill the bottom of the bilge, creating a flat surface that sloped slightly forward from the aft portion of the bilge.  I then covered the area with a layer of 1708 biaxial cloth that attached well up the sides of the bilge, creating new bilge bottom and sealing the area beneath.

http://alberg30project.blogspot.com/2012/07/having-lot-of-other-stuff-to-do-canvas.html

Mast Beam Repair

Instructions for repair of mast beam on Alberg 30 Site and here for the older boats.

The company that can cut the plates is

Washington Aluminum Company
1330 Knecht Avenue
Halethorpe, MD 21227
410-242-1000 extension 301 ask for Kirk

They have the pattern on file, and when I called I referred to it simply as the Alberg 30 mast beam support, and Kirk knew exactly what I was talking about – cost ~$450.